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Kasbah Taourirt Proves Glimpse Into Morocco’s Past
Morocco has so many ancient sites that one could spend a lifetime visiting and reading them, and many have been local, it is thought (as it is). Casablanca) or real (as in Lawrence of Arabia) about life-changing world events. I remember seeing the revival of the David Lean film Lawrence of Arabia in London around 1989, almost twenty years after it first came out, and I realized immediately that it was filmed near my favorite place in Morocco – near the town of Ouarzazate in the ancient Berber village of Ait Benhaddou. These places may be worth a visit on their own, but the real attraction for me is the Kasbah Taourart.
Kasbah, or casbah, is the inner part of the city, a type of medina. Kasbah Taourirt is one of the largest in North Africa, a place where ancient military leaders lived and protected themselves from foreign wars. As recently as a century ago, the French gave the tribal leaders in this part of Morocco great powers to prevent them from trying to control the various tribes living in the south of the country with the French army, which would have been very expensive. .
Kasbah Taourirt has high walls without windows. It was built on very low hills for easy safety. Kasbah Taourirt is best described as a series of interconnected buildings with many tall towers and turrets emerging from densely packed ksours (family houses within the kasbah), surrounded by walls and several openings and gates. There are more than 20 riyads, or old Moroccan buildings, that make up Taourrt. It was a beehive or a city within a city.
Inside the Kasbah you will find many wonderful staircases that lead to unique rooms lit by floor-to-ceiling windows. The main rooms have plaster decorations with flowers that contrast sharply with the bright white walls. The pasha’s palace alone has three hundred rooms.
Its densely packed buildings and beautiful towers, made of chalk and cemented sand, blend in beautifully with the red and white surroundings. Like clay mud flats, the houses sit in perpetual sunlight, sheltered only by the shadows of their neighbors, narrow doorways often being the only connection to the outside world. Light and air are allowed to enter the cool interior through the central courtyard.
While most parts of the Kasbah have fallen to the ground, what you can be shown by local guides are the restored parts (UNESCO documents) found near the main road, along with their courtyards and reception rooms. If you, like me, want to know more about the Taourirt Kasbah, ask your guide to take you behind the scenes of Taourirt, which is still inhabited by local families. For twenty dirhams in loose change, locals are willing to show you around and give you a glimpse of life as it has been here since the beginning of recorded time.
If your exploration of the Taourirt Kasbah takes you in the evening, I recommend you drink and watch the sunset from the terrace cafe that you can find next to the stone, copper and silver studios on the right side of the Kasbah. As you enjoy the refreshments while sitting on the terrace, you can have an unforgettable view of the Sahara sun setting over the walled village. You will want to come back.
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